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One of the most beloved cookbooks in my collection is the Moosewood Cookbook. I've had it since God was a boy, and it looks it with stains and scuffs and pages that are all bendy or wrinkled from getting damp, a broken spine and the occasional note. I love that book because it's free-spirited and whimsical, and the recipes are darn good.

So today I've been reading through "Moosewood Restaurant Cooking for Health" and while I'm appreciating the nutritional information, and the thoughtful way of approaching the subject of vegetarian/vegan cooking, for me it's missing something. Certainly it's not information of any sort. In addition to nutritional info for each recipe, there are sections on organics -- with info on pesticide levels in common fruits and veggies -- phytonutrients, food allergies, fish, the ingredients used, cooking methods, resources, and so on. And I can't possibly fault the recipes since they're classic Moosewood, both new and riffs on old favorites.

But along with all the emphasis on nutrition, sustainability, and organics, comes a new kind of seriousness which I really do get and appreciate. Gone are the goofy little drawings and asides on most pages, replaced by lovely, sedate drawings at the heads of chapters, and the aforementioned nutritional info. I doubt there's a spontaneous "YUM!" on any page. And I miss it.

So while the Moosewood cookbooks remain go-to references for any basic vegetarian/vegan kitchen, don't expect a lot of the old Moosewood spirit in this volume. It's all grown-up now and it takes food much more seriously than it used to.

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Tracy Rowan

August 2013

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